Why not modern?

I often question why I moved away from collecting predominantly modern watches and instead chose to focus almost entirely on vintage pieces.

The truth is, it wasn't a conscious decision that happened overnight. Like many collectors, I started with modern watches. They were readily available, reliable, easy to research and, quite simply, they appealed to me. Over time however, something changed.

The more vintage watches I handled, the more I found myself reaching for them instead of their modern counterparts. Before long, my interests had shifted almost entirely.

There are plenty of obvious reasons why vintage watches continue to appeal to me. The history, the individuality, the craftsmanship and, in many cases, the value they represent all play a part. There is also the excitement of searching for something that has survived decades in honest condition, perhaps with an interesting story behind it. Modern watches rarely offer quite the same sense of discovery.

Rarity is another factor. Many vintage references were produced in relatively small numbers and have naturally become scarcer over time. Finding the right example often requires patience, research and a little luck. That challenge is all part of the enjoyment.

However, there is one other reason which really stands out. For me, one of the most remarkable differences between vintage and modern watches is something that is surprisingly difficult to appreciate until you have spent a reasonable amount of time wearing both.

Case design, with everything that entails.

In my opinion, this is where a huge proportion of modern watches lose their way. Of course there are exceptions. Many modern dress watches remain beautifully proportioned, with slim cases that wear exceptionally well. It is modern sports watches, in particular, where I feel things have changed the most.

Over the years, cases have mostly become larger, thicker and considerably heavier. Many feel unnecessarily bulky and top-heavy on the wrist. I often find myself asking why. With all of the advances in modern manufacturing, materials and engineering, surely today's watchmakers could produce sports watches that offer the same level of comfort and wearability as so many of their vintage predecessors.

Vintage watch cases were often designed with elegance as well as functionality in mind. The proportions simply seemed right. They were slimmer, lighter and beautifully balanced, allowing the watch to sit naturally on the wrist. After only a few minutes of wearing one, you almost forget it is there. That, to me, is good design.

A great watch shouldn't constantly remind you that you're wearing it. It should become part of you.

Interestingly, I didn't fully appreciate this until I had spent a number of years wearing vintage watches. Going back to some of my modern pieces afterwards was something of a revelation. Watches I had once considered perfectly proportioned suddenly felt oversized and unnecessarily cumbersome. Once you've become accustomed to the balance and elegance of many vintage watches, it's remarkably difficult to unlearn.

Ironically, many manufacturers now look back through their own archives when designing their latest collections. Vintage-inspired models have become increasingly popular, borrowing heavily from the styling and proportions of watches produced fifty or sixty years ago. Yet, despite having access to vastly superior manufacturing techniques and materials, the modern interpretations almost always seem to end up thicker than the originals. To me, it suggests that those earlier designers understood something about proportion and wearability that is surprisingly difficult to replicate today.

This isn't to say that modern watches don't have their place. Their reliability, water resistance, materials and manufacturing tolerances are often remarkable, and there are some exceptional contemporary watches available today. For me though, when I consider the combination of history, craftsmanship, rarity, value and wearability, vintage continues to win.

Every collector eventually develops their own preferences.

For me, the further I travelled into vintage, the harder it became to travel back.